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Black-eyed pea tradition dates back to 1800s
Published December 31, 2006
SEGUIN — As far back as most of us can remember, our grandmothers have urged us to eat black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day for good-luck and prosperity in the new year.
But where does this tradition come from? And what magical quality do the beans possess that ensures, upon eating a spoonful, 2007 will be the best year yet?
Chef Al Boos, manager of the Seguin H-E-B, said the tradition of eating peas at the start of the new year dates back to the Civil War era. When northern soldiers ravaged the countryside in the 1860s, by sheer luck and misunderstanding, the peas were one of the few remaining sources of food.
“When General Sherman [pillaged] areas in the south like Louisiana and Georgia, they saw black-eyed peas in the fields and thought they were field peas, otherwise known as cattle feed, so they ignored them,” Boos said. “That they bypassed them was good fortune for the people in the area, and the southern folk survived [in part] because they left the peas.”
The traditional black-eyed peas dish included, peas, of course, and collard or mustard greens. The peas represented coins, Boos said, and the greens stood for paper money.
“Eating black-eyed peas is supposed to bring good luck and good finances,” Boos said.
Another traditional southern dish goes by the name of Hoppin’ John, which consists of peas cooked with seasonings, rice and pork — notably the neck bones or jowls — not premium cuts of meat.
“In Texas, we have made our own version of Hoppin’ John, which includes slow cooked black-eyed peas and adding in jalapenos and cerano peppers. In the south, southwest they add finely diced sweet onions right on top of the black-eyed peas, then serve on top of rice.”
Black-eyed peas have had southern ties for centuries. The crop was closely linked to the slave trade and was partial to the weather here.
“They did very well in the south because they liked the heat,” Boos said.
But what began as a southern New Year’s Day tradition spread to the rest of the United States as the country expanded and southern transplants moved north.
H-E-B offers a variety of black-eyed pea options for those who use tradition to bring in the new year. Fresh-prepared black-eyed pea casserole and black-eyed pea salad are available at the deli, dried black-eyed peas and peas in cans are available on the shelf and fresh peas can be picked up in the produce aisle.
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